This is the standard adjustment list from Woolwich, I am speaking with J33 Dyno in the UK about rflashing my bike, are there some specific areas which need to be adjusted and how? Please dont feel obligated to explain these things to me, but i certainly wont be upset if you do Now i realize id have to get it redone after i get the m4 full system but there is a possibility ill do it all at once. said they only do dynojet stuff but they take the bike put the pc on( or i install it myself then take it to them which is what i will do) then dyno tune it up and its good to go with a custom map 300$ for the dyno. I am also looking around at power commanders, talked to a somewhat local shop (60 mi) that does dyno tuning and thats what they do. They are tricky to get a hold of, someone is always their to answer the phone during buisness hours but she says the tuner or tuners are only there between 330 & 4 ? Plan as of now is to get in touch with the tuner at schnitz after the new year and talk to them about what they can do. Im mostly understanding these last few posts about the secondary throttle plates closing at wot & high revs though. never ever learned about timing or how to possibly manipulate it. Only done carbs, only messed with lean vs rich running. If i were jump into this with woolich, as far as tech goes what will i need?ĭefinitely some sort of device able to run the software, that will be compatible with the plug from woolich? what else? i dont even own a computer, i got a smartphone but thats it. MY problem is im not super tech savvy, well not at all really. **WHEN YOU RECEIVE YOUR ECU BACK THERE WILL BE INSTRUCTIONS INSIDE THE PACKAGE.Ok paul, i might be able to get into that. If you ship your ecu to me with a signature request and I'm not available to sign for it, your package may be delayed by 1-3 days For off-road use onlyĬurrent Customers Flashed by Xplane R1 Custom Tuning: Contact us for your reflash code - your ECU to: XPlane R1 Custom Tuning 3221 Sceptor Ct Shiloh, IL 62221 Stock was pretty close IMO, and I just made a couple small changes that worked very well.įan temp was Lowered to keep the bike running significantly cooler during hot weather It can’t be done on the dyno since the front wheel is immobile. So I had to take the bike off the dyno to test this one. I did about 20 changes and found a rpm that the bike really liked and saw a nice jump in power strictly from this change Variable stacks are probably Yamaha’s greatest feature. This test involved adjusted at which point the stacks raise and lower. I’ve adjusted this to shift as fast as possible at full throttle and to smooth out part throttle as well (you can see this in my videos) Oem kill times are pretty slow and the bike would dip hard on shifts and lose momentum. The kill times for the QS were adjusted per rpm range and per gear. Part throttle and full throttle have Been adjusted.Įngine brake was nicely smoothed out snd made more linear instead of progressive. Midrange timing had minimal adjustments.įuel was adjusted in all areas and a lot was needed down low as the initial hit was very lean. Timing at WOT was adjusted to safely increase power with detonation. Timing down low was altered to help the bike run cooler. Ignition timing has changed drastically also. The on/off/on throttle transitions are smooth as butter. All modes have full power at WOT, but the rate at which it reaches full throttle is different at each PWR mode. PWR 1 is the most aggressive and tapers down to PWR 4. Available for: 2020-2024 Yamaha R1 and R1MĮach PWR mode has fully optimized throttle mapping.
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